How We Install T-Bar Ceilings: Step by Step

T-bar ceilings look simple — metal grid, drop in tiles, done. But a good installation requires precision at every step. Crooked grid, wavy ceiling lines, uneven tile reveals — these are the signs of sloppy work, and they're visible from the ground. Here's how we do it right.

Step 1: Read the Drawings

Before we touch a tool, we study the reflected ceiling plan (RCP). This drawing shows the ceiling layout from above — tile pattern, light fixture locations, HVAC diffuser locations, sprinkler heads, speakers, access panels, and any changes in ceiling height. We mark up the plan with our grid layout, noting where main runners go, where we start the pattern, and how border tiles fall at the walls.

Why border tiles matter: if a room is 23 feet wide and you're using 2-foot tiles, you get 11 full tiles and a 1-foot border on each side. But if you start the grid flush to one wall, you get 11 full tiles and a 2-foot tile against the opposite wall — which looks unbalanced. We center the layout so border tiles are equal on both sides. It's basic but a lot of crews skip it.

Step 2: Establish Ceiling Height

We shoot a laser level to establish the finished ceiling elevation across the entire space. The laser gives us a perfectly level reference line. We mark this line on the walls around the perimeter — this is where the wall angle sits.

Before we commit to the height, we check clearances above. Light fixtures need a minimum number of inches above the grid (depends on the fixture — recessed cans need 6–8", troffers need 4–6"). HVAC flex duct needs room to run without getting kinked. Sprinkler heads have specific deflector-to-ceiling distances. We check all of this against the mechanical drawings and adjust the ceiling height if needed. Better to catch a conflict now than after the grid is up.

Step 3: Install Wall Angle

Wall angle is the L-shaped metal trim that runs around the perimeter of the room. It serves two purposes: it supports the ends of the grid at the walls, and it creates a clean visual transition from wall to ceiling.

We fasten wall angle with powder-actuated fasteners (Hilti or Ramset) into concrete or steel, or screws into wood framing. Spacing is typically 16–24 inches. Every joint gets overlapped and aligned — no gaps, no steps. At outside corners, we miter-cut the angle. At inside corners, we overlap.

This step looks simple but it sets the tone for the whole ceiling. If the wall angle isn't level and tight, the grid won't be either.

Step 4: Layout and Snap Lines

We snap chalk lines on the deck above to mark where the main runners go. Mains typically run the long dimension of the room, spaced 4 feet apart. The first main is positioned based on our centered layout — so border tiles come out balanced.

We also mark hanger wire locations along each main runner line. Standard spacing is 4 feet on center. In seismic zones (everywhere in California), we also mark locations for compression posts and splay wires per the bracing plan.

Step 5: Install Hanger Wires

Hanger wires connect the grid to the structure above. Each wire starts with a fastener in the deck — either a powder-actuated pin with an eye, a concrete insert, or a beam clamp depending on what we're hanging from.

We cut 12-gauge galvanized wire to length (ceiling drop plus 6 inches for wrapping), thread it through the fastener eye, and wrap it back around itself three times. The bottom end gets a 90-degree bend to hook into the main runner. Every wire hangs plumb — we eyeball this and adjust as we go.

Wire installation is methodical. A 5,000 sf ceiling with 4-foot spacing has roughly 300 hanger wires. Each one needs to be in the right spot, the right length, and securely fastened. This is where experience shows — our crews can hang 100+ wires per hour without mistakes.

Step 6: Hang Main Runners

Main runners are the backbone of the grid. They're 12-foot lengths of T-shaped metal that splice together end-to-end to span the room. We hook each main runner onto its hanger wires and begin leveling.

Leveling is the critical skill here. We use the laser line as our reference and adjust each wire by bending the 90-degree hook up or down. The goal is a perfectly flat ceiling plane — no dips, no humps, no waves. Tolerance is 1/8" over 10 feet. Our guys check this obsessively because once the cross tees and tiles go in, you can see every imperfection.

Main runners also need to be straight. We pull a string line along the length and make sure the mains don't bow left or right. A bowed main means the tiles on either side will have uneven reveals.

Step 7: Install Cross Tees

Cross tees span between the main runners. For a 2×4 tile layout, cross tees go at 4-foot intervals. For 2×2, you add intermediate cross tees at 2-foot intervals. The tees snap into pre-punched slots in the main runners — you hear a click when they're seated properly.

We install tees starting from one side of the room and working across. As each tee snaps in, we check that it's seated fully and that the grid is square. A speed square at the intersection confirms 90 degrees. If the grid isn't square, tiles won't fit properly at the walls.

Step 8: Seismic Bracing

California requires seismic bracing on all suspended ceiling systems. We install two types of bracing:

Compression posts: Rigid vertical members that prevent the ceiling from swaying up and down during an earthquake. Typically spaced 12 feet on center in both directions.
Splay wires: Diagonal wires at 45 degrees that resist lateral movement. Four splay wires at each bracing point, one in each direction.

We also leave a clearance gap at the perimeter — the wall angle supports the grid but doesn't lock it in place. During seismic movement, the grid needs to be able to shift slightly without popping tiles. The gap is typically 3/8" to 3/4" depending on the seismic design category.

Step 9: Install Tiles

The satisfying part. Once the grid is level, square, and braced, tiles go in fast. Standard lay-in tiles tip up through the grid opening, rotate, and drop onto the flanges. We wear clean gloves — fingerprints on white tiles are visible.

Border tiles get cut to fit. We measure each border individually (walls are never perfectly straight), mark the tile, and cut with a utility knife (mineral fiber) or a razor saw (fiberglass). Clean cuts, straight lines, tight fit to the wall angle.

Light fixtures, air diffusers, and sprinkler escutcheons go into their designated grid openings. Fixture support wires (independent of the ceiling grid) carry the weight of fixtures heavier than 5 lbs. We coordinate with the electrician on fixture installation — sometimes they install their trim after we tile, sometimes we work together in the same area.

Step 10: Final Inspection

We walk the entire ceiling from multiple angles. Standing under it and looking across at eye level reveals any level issues the laser might have missed. We check:

Grid is level and straight — no waves, dips, or bows
Tile reveals are uniform — same gap around every tile
Border tiles are consistent — same width on opposite walls
No damaged, dirty, or mismatched tiles
All fixtures are properly seated and aligned
Seismic bracing is complete and per plan
Wall angle joints are tight and continuous

We fix anything that doesn't meet our standard before calling the GC for walkthrough. It's easier to fix it now than to come back later.

Timeline

For reference, here's how long typical projects take our crew:

2,000 sf office: 1–2 days
5,000 sf office: 2–3 days
10,000 sf open floor: 4–5 days
25,000 sf warehouse conversion: 8–12 days

These assume standard T-bar with mineral fiber or fiberglass tiles, 9–10 foot ceilings, and no unusual complications. Add time for high ceilings, complex layouts, or specialty products.